A recently finished Death Company Dreadnought!  Dreads are one of my favorite things about Warhammer. Nothing exemplifies the setting more than a dead warrior placed in a coffin/battlesuit to continue his service to his God Emperor beyond the grave. Grim dark indeed! #bloodangels #deathcompany #grimdark #astartes #spacemarines #Warhammer40k #warhammercommunity #dreadnought #28mm

I made a simple conversion for my Murderfang dreadnought. It's not very complicated, but I like it more than the stock head.  My dreadnought only army from 5th editing is updated and almost finished!  #warhammer40k #spacewolves40k #spacewolves #new40k #conversion #murderfang

This Deathskulls Ork boy is ready to mob up after testing my new photo rig. #miniaturepainting #paintingwarhammer #grimdark #warhammercommunity #new40k #28mag #orks40k #spaceorks #deathskulls #waaagh

  The Salamanders homeworld, Nocturne and it's moon Prometheus, during the "Time of Trial." Both are classified as Death-Worlds by the Imperium. Once every Nocturne year, or 15-Terran years, Prometheus' orbit causes catastrophic geological events on both planets, causing the population seek shelter underground or in large shielded areas to survive. I just ran a Photoshop tutorial on painting planets and I decided to make my favorite chapter's homeworld. I hope I did it justice!   

Salamanders Redemptor Dreadnought,  a bullet-proof coffin for an honored brother.  #miniaturepainting #paintingwarhammer #new40k #spacemarines #astartes #salamanders40k #warhammercommunity #Warhammer40k #dreadnought

I recently finished this Salamanders Assault Intercessor squad from my Hellbenders army. I just realized that one brother is missing his backpack. Despite that I'm pretty proud of these fellows. I feel like my paint skills are getting better.  The techmarine is going to be pissed about that missing gear though. 

  This may be one of my longest serving models, an oldhammer Salamanders Librarian. He's had his base upgraded to modern size and the occasional touch up.  I painted this guy ages ago and it's a little cringe-worthy to post online but I think it's nice to use a watermark to see how far I've processed in my painting. I'm resisting the urge to strip him and try again. 

  In played in a small RTT today. And by played, I mean, I went 1-2. Barely. I've got to work on my dicemanship and learn to roll better. I was also pretty rusty with some rules, especially the bloated objective scoring system. It's one of my least favorite things about 40k right now. So much of it is haphazardly cobbled together and it doesn't appear the rules team were working together when they finally went to print.  For example, sometimes you score at the end of your phase, sometimes you score at the end of the round if you declared something in your movement phase, sometimes you don't score until the end of the game (after a few minutes of counting and dividing...) and sometimes you can't find a pen and your dumb app isn't adding all of the points correctly.  The old ITC method was so much cleaner and you don't spend 20 minutes looking at your opponent's list trying to min-max your objectives each game. I just think they needs to be simpler way

There are many videos and blog posts about building better miniature storage solutions for painters and gamers. I have been using various Battlefoam transports and similar cases but they are expensive and can still cause minor damage from rubbing. The commercially available magnetic cases are awesome but come with a hefty price tag so decided to try my hand at making my own case. You need: A plastic box ($15 at Michaels) Thin sheet metal and sheers ($10 each at Menards) Glue (Already owned, but only $4.99) 1/4" by1/16" disc neodymium magnets. (100 for $5.99) Ruler (Already owned if you're a gamer! I used an artists t-square.) Step 1: Measure the inside of your box. The usable dimensions for me were 12.5" x 15.5". I then used my t-square to draw that shape on the sheet metal. Also of note, my box is about 5.5" deep, plenty of height for a dreadnought standing up on a decorative base. Step 2: Cut the sheet metal. Go slow. Pro tip: Don't completely close t