There's a new Warhammer 40k League starting soon at my local game shop and it's motivated me to continue work on my growing White Scar army.
Since I have about 3 dozen bikes to assemble, I was experimenting with new ways to fill those pesky gaps you see on a lot of Space Marine bikes. The process is pretty simple and I thought I'd share my technique that helps save some time glueing models together so you can get to the painting table, then gaming table even faster. You won't need any pastes, expensive green stuff, or putty.
After I assemble the bike with plastic glue, I give the gaps and good standing so the edges are flush. Next, I use more plastic glue as a "weld" and run a line of glue over the seams. Since the plastic glue melts the model to create a bond, the halves of the bike are fused together and the glue runs into the seams, filling any gaps.
Make sure to let the model dry completely before moving onto the next step.
Next, I re-sand all of the seams and file off the excess glue. Since the glue has dried, it files right off and leaves a nice, filled in gap that is nice and smooth and bonded tight as if it was molded that way.
After all of the sanding is done, the model is ready to be primed and painted. This has saved me so much time and money versus sanding, using green stuff, and sanding more. It's also far more effective than liquid green stuff.
Now your bikes will look like they rolled off the show room floor as they knock your opponent off the table top!
Since I have about 3 dozen bikes to assemble, I was experimenting with new ways to fill those pesky gaps you see on a lot of Space Marine bikes. The process is pretty simple and I thought I'd share my technique that helps save some time glueing models together so you can get to the painting table, then gaming table even faster. You won't need any pastes, expensive green stuff, or putty.
After I assemble the bike with plastic glue, I give the gaps and good standing so the edges are flush. Next, I use more plastic glue as a "weld" and run a line of glue over the seams. Since the plastic glue melts the model to create a bond, the halves of the bike are fused together and the glue runs into the seams, filling any gaps.
Make sure to let the model dry completely before moving onto the next step.
Next, I re-sand all of the seams and file off the excess glue. Since the glue has dried, it files right off and leaves a nice, filled in gap that is nice and smooth and bonded tight as if it was molded that way.
After all of the sanding is done, the model is ready to be primed and painted. This has saved me so much time and money versus sanding, using green stuff, and sanding more. It's also far more effective than liquid green stuff.
Now your bikes will look like they rolled off the show room floor as they knock your opponent off the table top!
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